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Many safe, practical, nonchemical methods of plant security and insect management might lower or eliminate the need to spray. Other techniques are most helpful when utilized with pesticides. To execute management practices correctly and to decrease losses, garden enthusiasts need to know the types of bugs that attack plants and comprehend pest biology.


Insect management methods fall into four groups: cultural, mechanical, biological, and chemical. Keeping plants healthy and preventing plant stress helps plants to much better stand up to and fix the damage triggered by a bug or mite bug. Some proof indicates that healthy plants resist problem by pests much better than plants with low vigor.

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Lots of serious disease or insect problems can be stopped or slowed by frequently visiting the garden, knowing what to try to find, recognizing possible problems, and stepping in early. Cultural techniques of suppressing insect and mite issues in the landscape include preparing the soil; picking plants that are adapted to the website conditions, that are not attractive to pests, and that are tolerant of insects and illness; rotating crops; interplanting; timing planting dates to prevent insects; managing weeds; and planting "trap" crops.


If tilling is deemed needed, think about doing it in the fall when the life cycles of many insects brings them near the surface. At the surface area, insects end up being exposed to the weather condition as well as birds and other natural opponents.

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Analyze plants carefully (tops of leaves, bottoms of leaves, stems, and soil) prior to planting to be sure they are clean. Think about planting determined as resistant to insects. Resistant cultivars are those that repel, are unattractive to, or otherwise disagree as food for particular pests or that hold up against feeding by specific pests with little decrease in yield or quality.


If deer are an issue in a garden, pick a plant that is naturally resistant to deer predation over a plant that is more appealing to deer. Planting two similar crops in successive years tends to increase insect problems - ant control and prevention in Medford.

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Some insects hibernate in the soil or litter around plants or lay eggs in or on the host plant. Use related crops in a site just as soon as every 3 or four years.




Crop rotation is most reliable on bugs that establish on a few plants. Prevent placing all plants of one kind weblink together; rather spread them throughout the garden (Figure 85). Consider alternating groups of different plants within rows or patches. Pests that become severe on cabbage most likely also infest nearby mustard, broccoli, and collards, but they might not spread out to cabbage planted on the other side of the garden.

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Marigolds and garlic are two plants advised as insect repellants; however, many of these suggestions are unproven. In some cases, the proof suggests these plants are not efficient repellants.


The flowers of thistle, plantain, knotweed, and dandelion are very important to honey bee populations. Removing weeds after flowering however before seed set supplies food for the honey bees however keeps the weeds from continuing to spread. Another method to handle insect pests is to plant a crop that is really attractive to bugs and after that deal with the trap crop with insecticide.

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Crop rotation is an important cultural technique for minimizing insect and disease problems, but many gardeners do you could try here not have the room to adequately implement this practice. Where area is limited, it may be best to enable the garden to lay fallow for a year or two or more. Think about raised beds with new soil or plant in containers when you know a disease issue exists.




Almost any big non-venomous insect can be chosen off at any phase. To prevent the job of hand-squashing the pests, knock the bugs and egg clusters into a coffee can or quart container with a small quantity of water and a bit of dish cleaning agent. Insect traps can help with detection and management.

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Likewise, these traps do Learn More not catch some wingless species, along with those types active only during the day (diurnal) instead of active throughout the night (nighttime). Scent traps are used for identifying the existence of pests or sometimes for disrupting insect mating practices. Adult females produce and release a chemical smell appealing to males of the same types.


The best success takes place when the insect density is low and movement into the area is minimal. Some physical traps are simple to make from products around the house.

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Reapply every one to three weeks. This barrier is preventive; it will not work if an insect pest is already developed.


Some pests, such as the azalea stem borer and the dogwood club gall (Figure 813), can be handled by pruning contaminated branches out of infested plants and ruining them. If twigs plagued with dogwood branch borers are pruned in late spring or early summertime, the plants ought to still bloom with no issue the following spring.